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Welcome to your ultimate must-do guide to Progreso, Yucatan. Progreso is a port city north of Merida situated on the Gulf of Mexico. Being on the gulf makes Progreso unique in many ways, a fishing village, cruise ship destination, and importantly a shipping hub to import/export goods. Furthermore, as a tourist destination, you can come for a day via a cruise ship and take an excursion down into the Yucatan. Visting Merida, Cenotes, Uxmal, or Chichen Itza both Uxmal, and Chichen Itza are fascinating Mayan ruins.

Another option is to make Progreso a long stay; we have done this twice, the first time for 6 weeks, and this time we will be snowbirding the whole winter here, 5 1/2 months. Progreso is located between two other towns that in themselves are snowbird friendly, Chicxulub and Chelum.

No matter why or how you visit Progreso, you should make a point to visit Progreso. Locals are friendly, with great local seafood, and inviting beautiful beaches.

So please read our ultimate guide to Progreso showcasing local attractions, activities, and guided excursions into Yucatan itself.

Getting to Progreso

Progreso is located 4 hours northwest of Cancun on the Yucatan peninsula or 45 minutes north of Merida, Yucatan’s capital. There are many ways to get to Progreso, catch a bus using ADO from Cancun to Merida, and from Merida to Progreso catch the autoprogreso bus. Car rental or even a day excursion from Merida. Progreso boasts the longest pier at 6.5 km in the world. This pier is a regular stop for cruise ships.

Progreso Your Ultimate Must-Do Guide

Why Stay in Progreso

Staying here in Progreso is not for everyone; if you are looking for that constant thrill or the nightlife’s loud beats, then Progreso is not for you. On the other hand

We picked Progreso as we thought it would afford us the simple life, not too busy and away from the hustle and bustle of larger touristy towns. Progreso is the last stop in our 5 ½ month winter travel get-away. We are here for 6 weeks and very much looking forward to this part of our trip.

Accommodation Guide to Progreso

Accommodation options in Progreso are many. Not only do you have luxury apartments but there are bed & breakfast, hotels or our goto favorite Airbnb.

Our Airbnb Apartment

We booked an Airbnb here in Progreso Yucatan, with Erika called “Seagull Apartment/Ocean Front.” In fact, Airbnb works for us as it is simple to make reservations, and you generally get a discount on the rate the longer you stay. Our reservation was for 6 weeks. Erika was very responsive to our texts and needs.

The apartment’s location was right on the beach, just a short couple of minutes’ walk to the water. Just 2 km from the center of Progreso, which we found to be a perfect location. Close enough to walk or ride into Progreso but far enough out so you do not hear too much noise.

We like to do a lot of walking and riding bikes. We had the use of 2 bikes for a small fee for our entire stay. This made getting around the local area charming and enjoyable while getting exercise in the process. We wear Samsung sports gear watches to keep track of these activities as well as calories burned.

The Apartment Comforts

The apartment consisted of the whole upper level with a kitchen, living room, dining room, bedroom, en-suite bathroom. The rooms are spacious, and we felt right at home here. With 2 decks, one at the front and another in the back, it made it easy to rest and relax. Enjoying the easy life, with morning coffee watching the day come alive or cold drinks in the afternoon embracing the warmth of the sun while looking out onto the Gulf of Mexico.

Our kitchen consisted of a two-burner hot plate, fridge, microwave, coffee maker, blender, and cooking and eating utensils. We cooked about 80% of our meals in the apartment while still enjoying some meals out and about.

We found that Progreso’s people are friendly, saying hello as we walk by; life here is simple and very relaxed. See YouTube Video Progreso

A Guide to Progreso’s, Tasty Fresh Seafood and Produce

We found the local Progreso Mercado, which sells fresh produce, fruit, and as a bonus, lots of fresh seafood. Snapper, grouper, and shrimp, which we regularly purchase, cooked at home and relished thoroughly. When purchasing our daily needs at the market, it provided Cindy and me the opportunity to build friendships with the local merchants we get familiar with.

When we are in different locations globally, we like to taste and enjoy the available foods. As we never know if it’s going to be our next new favorite food.

Fresh fruit such as “Zapote” was surprising because it doesn’t look like much, but when it is ripe, the inside has a pudding texture and tastes like pudding! So having a fruit that tastes like dessert is something definitely worth purchasing. We enjoyed smoothies using fresh and somewhat exotic fruits daily.

Cindy and I find it to be more economical to cook at home; it does have its pros and cons, though. We have said this is more of a simpler lifestyle of rest than a vacation. When away from home for long periods of time, we can’t afford to eat out all the time. There are still times that we do go out to dine. Locally prepared dishes are always full of flavor and a surprise to the palate. Plus, this allows us to enjoy each other company and life’s simple pleasures.

Ecological Reserve Corchito

The Ecological Reserve Corchito is located a short bike ride east of Progreso, along the roadside. There is parking at no charge and a ticket office where you purchase your tickets. The cost is 35 pesos each on none cruise ship days but jumps up to 90 pesos when cruise ships are in port. So we recommend going when no cruise ship is in.

Taking a short boat trip across the lagoon into the mangroves, you enter Ecological Reserve Corchito. We found lots of raccoons waiting at the edges of the park looking for food. There is no food allowed into the area or sunscreen, just a heads up, but bring water as it is hot. This site is not that big; it has several cenotes that you can swim or wade into. Enjoyable for a couple of hours, it’s inexpensive and nearby, we would recommend going.

Salt ponds, Laguna Rosada

We heard of the salt ponds and a Mayan ruin not too far out of Progreso, approximately 30 km east. With the possibility of seeing flamingos as well. We found a local business renting scooters and for a cost of 350 pesos for 24 hours (no insurance or medical, etc., you’re on your own). The scooter rental did come with bike helmets; better safe, and it is the law.

So early in the morning, we are off riding our scooter to see the local salt ponds (Chacas de sal) Laguna Rosada. Doubling on this scooter is not the most comfortable form of transportation. We stopped several times to ease the pain of sitting.

After arriving at the salt ponds, we find no cost to walk around the salt ponds. There was a tiny gift shop of sorts here where we purchased a bag of harvested salt for 10 pesos. We will see what customs has to say about bringing home this salt as who knows what it might look like to them.

The salt ponds themselves we found to be interesting, and the lagoons a gorgeous pink color. There were flamingos to be seen as a bonus in the lagoons, but they were a long way away. Thank goodness for a telephoto lens.

Xcambo, Mayan ruins

After visiting the salt ponds, our next stop was to see the Mayan ruins of Xcambo, about 3 km away. Xcambo ruins are smaller in size compared to other sites we have visited. The cost to visit these ruins was 75 pesos, each very inexpensive.

We found the Xcambo ruins to be interesting, dating as far back as 200 a.d. It is said that the salt flats were commercially harvested, which provided an important export commodity to the people of this era.

This ruin is not very busy, providing a great opportunity to explore at a leisurely pace. The ruins themselves provide a unique backdrop to take pictures.

Fishing at the Piers

Since Progreso is on the gulf, there are ample opportunities to fish either by charter or on the local fishing piers (Progreso or Chicxlub). Cindy and I both love to fish. We thought about purchasing a fishing rod, but we wouldn’t be bringing it back with us to be a rather expensive investment.

Talking to Erika, our Airbnb host, she suggested a hand reel as this is what all the locals use. We looked into it, not knowing what this was, discovered that this hand reel should work fine. So this is the route we went as the cost was approx: 120 pesos, cheap entertainment for two.

I looked online about the fishing license and found out that you should have a license, but it is not an easy process to apply online, and the comment was made that no one is ever asked, so we decided to risk it. See YouTube Progreso Fishing

Chicxulub

Chicxulub is a very short distance east of Progreso. An interesting fact about Chicxulub is that it is the location of the Chicxulub Impact. The Chicxulub impact was where the meteor hit Earth, causing the extinction of the dinosaurs.

Kite Surfing

The Progreso area appears to be big on kite surfing. Later in the day, the wind picks up, and this is when the kite surfers come out to play. It’s amazing to watch as some are very good at getting huge air and doing tricks. Only if one was about 40 years younger, it looks like it would be fun to try. Kite Surfing YouTube

Pedicure/Manicure

What’s a visit to Mexico without an inexpensive Pedicure or Manicure. Cindy found such a place, a salon called Elly Blessed, so we decided we would both have pedicures. The cost of the pedicure is 110 pesos each. Cindy got her toes painted, but I thought I would pass on this phase of the pedicure.

Cindy returned the following week for her manicure, and the cost was the same 110 pesos. Very reasonable for the amount of pampering time one gets. The receptionist spoke some English, and the technicians spoke very little English, but we managed to understand one another. It was a nice little pampering treatment and a great way to relax.

A guided Excursion from Progreso

Cindy and I had been in Progreso for approximately 4 weeks and felt it was time to take an excursion. Coming up with our own guide to do things while in Progreso Yucatan. We planned to visit some cenotes to go swimming plus see a couple of more Mayan ruins. We heard of Loltun Grottes caves, a cave, and it looked like something interesting to see.

Finding a car rental place in Progreso, Yucatan Vacations. Renting a car was the best way for us to get around the Yucatan to visit locations we wanted to see. Our own self-guided itinerary included cenotes, more Mayan ruins as well as the Loltun caves.

We had looked into taking a guided tour when we were in Merida but thought the costs were high. Delaying the car rental until near the end of our stay here in Progreso allowed us to see where our finances were.

Car rental three days and insurance were approximately 2300 pesos; fuel cost 757 pesos and lodging two nights 950 pesos. Misc other costs (entrance fees, parking, tour guides, etc…) plus food and beer approximately 1000 pesos.

Dzibilchaltun Ruins

After picking up the car Tuesday morning, we headed south of Progreso toward Merida down to Dzibilchaltun ruins just north of Merida. Arriving at the ruin entrance at 10:30 am before any bus tours had arrived.

Costs at Dzibilchaltun, parking 30 pesos, entrance fee 227 pesos each. We spent several hours here enjoying the sites and taking lots of pictures. By the time we were ready to move on, the tour buses had arrived, and Dzibilchaltun was getting busy. We left Dzibilchaltun ruins early afternoon and were off to see some cenotes.

Cenote Noh Mozon

After leaving Dzibilchaltun, it took us 1 1/2 hrs to get to Noh Mozon cenote, which is located south of Merida. I would definitely recommend using a GPS or GPS app as these cenotes are not that easy to find with very little signage.

Cindy and I had a wonderful stay and thoroughly enjoyed the cool, relaxing swim that this cenote had to offer. We would recommend this cenote if you’re in the area. The cost to enter was 40 pesos each, very reasonable. After playing here for about 1 1/2 hrs, we were off to the second cenote of the day Yah Nah.

Cenote Yah Nah

We arrived at Cenote Yah Nah around 4:00 pm; the cost of entry here was 40 pesos each. We spent 1 hour here, swimming and snorkeling—no better way to beat the heat. Again if in the area, stop and visit as it is worth the time. After our swim, it was off to Ticul for the night.

Ticul for the Night

We had booked our hotel Bugambilias in Ticul through Booking.com at 340 pesos for the night. Nothing to write home about, but it had air conditioning, the bed was comfortable.

After checking in, it was off to the local store to pick up some beer and snacks. With this beer and snacks purchased, it was off to look for a place to eat for dinner. Unfortunately, late in the evening and not knowing what’s in town, we settled on a pizza joint. The pizza was good, but I was looking for Mexican flavor.

Enough leftover pizza for breakfast in the morning as we wanted an early start to Uxmal. We wanted to get through most Uxmal ruins before the tour buses arrived; we heard it gets hectic here.

Uxmal Ruins

Wednesday morning and off to Uxmal, got on the road around 7:00 am. We made it to Uxmal before it opened and had to wait. Parking was 80 pesos, the entrance fee to Uxmal was 413 pesos each.

We did hire a guide for 700 pesos as you get so much more information about the site itself with a guide. Hiring a guide also helps the local economy and the people; it’s just good practice.

We picked Uxaml over Chichen Itza as we heard that Chichen Itza was always very busy. Chichen Itza is close to Merida, Cancun, and other locations on the east coast, which gets lots of tours.

We were not disappointed in Uxmal, we thoroughly enjoyed it, and it wasn’t overly busy. We left Uxmal around 11:30 am and were off to see the Loltun caves.

Loltun Caves

Arriving at Loltun Caves early in the afternoon, just in time to catch the next guided tour. This was great as Loltun caves have set times for their tours. If you miss the tour departure time, you can end up waiting up to an hour for the next tour.

Loltun Caves cost parking 30 pesos and the entrance 144 pesos each plus the cost of the guide. You have no choice; you need a guide to enter the caves. The cost of the guide is up to your discretion, but they do have recommendations.

We hired and paid our guide Ricardo 500 pesos as he spoke good English. Ricardo, we thought, did a good job explaining about the caves as he had grown up playing in them as a child. Leaving Loltun Caves around 2:00 pm, we looked forward to our next night’s stay as it had a pool.

Airbnb Turistico Xuux Eek

We had booked Turistico Xuux Eek through Airbnb as it had a pool and close to some cenotes that we wanted to visit.

Arriving at our Airbnb early expecting to relax in the pool, they had been advertised with the stay. Nope pool down for maintenance, no reduction in cost. This was the theme for the rest of our stay.

Dinner was good but short on quantity; the cost was 130 pesos each. Our breakfast the next morning was delicious and lots to eat but expensive again 130 pesos. Our night’s sleep was cold as there was not enough bedding (we are from Canada). The toilet was missing its seat, which I thought was inexcusable.

The cost of this Airbnb was 600 pesos, again expensive for what you get. As a rule, we try not to complain, but this place was just not worth the money. The only good thing about it was we were close to our next two cenotes X’batun and Dzonbacal.

Cenote X’batun & Dzonbacal

The last day of our little trip was a 15-minute drive to purchase the tickets from a blue house up the road and then onto X’batun cenote.

The cost of these two cenotes X’batun & Dzonbacal, was 50 pesos each for both, the best deal so far. After spending 2 1/2 hrs at these two cenotes X’batun & Dzonbacal, it was time to head back to Progreso.

We stopped in Merida to do some banking and hit the grocery store. We needed to stock up with items for our last week and a half in Progreso.

Chuburna Puerto

After returning from our 3-day trip and back into the Progreso area, we decided to drive to Chuburna Puerto to watch the sunset. We had been here before when we rented the scooter but hadn’t been back since. Riding our bikes in the heat, we felt it would be too exhausting and just too far to ride. Then trying to get back home before it got dark. So having the rental car made this trip possible again.

The sky was clear, with hardly a cloud. It was windy as it usually is in the afternoon. There were lots of vehicles parked on the beach. We were pleasantly surprised by the number of people out enjoying themselves. Especially the kite surfers, there were a few couples having pregnancy photos taken.

Greg took a video of some very experienced kite surfers getting lots of big air. Along with pictures of kite surfers in the distance as the sun was setting, adding another dimension to the pictures.

If you get the opportunity, make sure that you visit this little gem. Nice secluded beach, kite surfers, and to top it off the beautiful sunsets over the Gulf of Mexico.

Back home to Progreso

Once the sun had set, we headed back home towards Progreso. We stopped at this restaurant called “Cristo Ray” Greg had the seafood stew, and I had the seafood negros. Both dishes were excellent. The sunset and dinner combined to make a perfect way to finish our 3-day tour of the Yucatan.

Friday morning we dropped off the car, very pleased with our awesome self-guided adventure!

Progreso Yucatan The Simple Life

Cindy and I would like to take a moment and say that we really enjoyed our stay in Progreso Yucatan. Progreso Yucatan a simple life, a great place for rest and relaxation. People are nice and friendly; the market was a joy to visit. I would recommend Progreso Yucatan to everyone. We will be back to Progress again when it comes time to slow down on our traveling life. We hear that there is a big ex-pat community of Americans and Canadians. I believe Cindy and I could get used to winter here; it would be our pleasure.

Thank you.